NIOD Flavanone MudFlavanone Mud (FM)
Flavanone Mud is a three-phase rinse-off decongestion system that disrupts neither the skin surface equilibrium nor its density. While FM can be classified as a masque for categorical convenience, its approach varies substantially from that offered by the concept of masques today both in terms of its way of positive visible influence on the skin as well as its respect for dermal integrity.
Masques in general offer topical decongestion of the skin by means of including muds and clays to absorb surface impurities. While some level of deeper cleaning does occur with this approach, muds or clays are unable to solubilize surface impurities and so the decongestion is inefficient. Furthermore, the visible effect is very temporary and further exposure to pollution and cosmetics will undo most of the positive effect quickly.
FM approaches decongestion in three phases:
This phase is the simplest one in the formulation and the one that is most closely aligned with masques as they are known today. In this phase, surface impurities which include oil- and water-soluble pollution, cosmetic product build-up and excess sebum activity build-up are physically solubilized and removed.
- A highly-efficient bio-solubilizing technology breaks down both water- and oil-soluble impurities within seconds of application;
- A delivery system for molecular oxygen gas within the formulation increases oxygen supply.
- A black Amazonian clay with very high concentrations of titanium and oligo-elements binds to solubilized external impurities while visibly reducing pore inconsistency immediately;
- A sedimentary white clay binds to excess sebum function bi-products without impairing surface barrier integrity;
- A copper-rich - yet stable - clay from Brazil supports surface barrier function during the cleaning process.
Protective Phase This phase of FM's formulation offers the most innovative approach to decongestion by introducing technologies that offer a physical shield against external build-up.
- A sea polysaccharide from microorganisms found in Polynesian coral reefs fights build up of urban pollution, acting as a shield against external aggression and allows for better response to climate changes which occur even when not travelling;
- An advanced analogue of resveratrol, which enables a first-ever topical utility of this incredible molecule, fights against the look of "browning".
- A bio-technological derivative of bitter orange peel reduces the look of inflammation as a result of environmental factors.
- An ultra-pure bisabolol - with up to 900 times less impurity than standard German chamomile flower derivatives - reduces the look inflammation through a secondary support mechanism while forming mild but sustainable support against climate change.
Responsive Phase This phase of the formulation introduces mechanisms that fight against environmental congestion factors. This phase is the most important phase of FM as it respects health and longevity. The presence of "Flavanone" in the name of the product emphasizes the importance of this phase.
- A highly-purified flavanone derived from the inner white parts of citrus peel, triggers topical visible detoxification;
- A pre-cursor to a modified oleic acid that is naturally produced on normal skin by a yeast offers a slow, non-abrupt, increase of this acid without disrupting dermal pH or density.
- This acid is unlike many other direct acids used in skincare that can actually increase inflammation, reduce skin density and reduce skin defences.
The result of this combined approach is a topical purification process that allows for a form of sustained visible radiance that is not "fabricated" through short-term inflammation or peeling.
RESPECT FOR DERMAL INTEGRITY
Masques and rinse-off treatments often highlight a promise toward glowing skin without respect for the simple fact that for skin to be truly glowing, so much needs to be in order including purification, texture regularity, pigmentation regularity, microcirculation, pore prominence and sebum function. Since masques in general at best address the issue of surface purification, their promise of glowing skin often would fall short and, in order to avoid user disappointment, these formulations often include more aggressive clays, acids and exfoliation mechanisms mainly to introduce enough irritation to increase circulation for a temporarily "glowing" tone. This approach, however, disrupts skin pH immediately, reduces skin density (thickness) and always causes inflammation which may lead to undue longer-term ageing.
FM avoids the use of aggressive clays, direct acids, low or high pH, exfoliating agents or any material that would disrupt dermal balance or cause undue inflammation. This approach means FM has to work much harder to achieve the perceived "glow" that excess inflammation would offer temporarily and that's what FM is, in fact, designed to do: work much harder and from many different perspectives to build sustainable purity and the visible radiance that follows.
One of the most advanced technologies used in FM is actually one that sounds the most boring: a very refined dispersion mechanism that allows for a very thin layer of the formula to cover the skin surface very evenly. Most masques require a thick layer to be applied to cover the entire face mainly due to the fact that clays and muds do not disperse well. This drawback generally wastes a large amount of product that will sit in a thick layer on the skin's surface while only the very thin layer of the masque is actually in contact with the skin. In addition to product waste, many technologies used within masques become trapped within the thicker fast-drying layers of the formulations, rendering their utility highly inefficient for the skin.
FM's dispersion advancement reduces the amount of product needed to cover the skin surface by as much as 80% compared to traditional approaches which means each 50ml container will offer between 18 and 25 treatments. The dispersion technology also allows for very rapid surface drying which translates to very quick absorption of the non-surface technologies used within the formulation.
Patch tests are an easy way to help predict if you may experience a negative initial reaction to a new product. It is recommended to perform a patch test before incorporating any new product into your regimen. We have outlined a general method for conducting your own patch test below based on the type of product.
- Apply a small amount of the product onto a clean area of skin on the upper forearm.
- Keep the area dry.
- If the product has a specified duration of use, rinse off after this time has elapsed. Otherwise rinse off after 24 hours.
- If any redness, burning, itching, blistering or irritation is observed at any time throughout the test, do not use the product.
For more product specific information, review our Patch Testing Guide.