NIODSanskrit Saponins (SS)
Cleaning started with water. Its evolution brought soap. It was later presented that soap was harsh and soap-free surfactants were introduced. Those surfactants became questionable and newer sulphate-free surfactants were introduced — while, in fact, some sulphate surfactants were far gentler and more effective. It was then suggested that surfactants were bad in general and that oils should be used for cleaning the skin instead. The modern day has gone farther to introduce micellar waters and water-free cleaning systems suggesting that water-cleaning should be less frequent to preserve skin integrity — what has become the beginning of questioning the very thing that started both life and the meaning of being clean: water.
The truth is that every advance in the journey of cleaning deserves respect. Each step criticized the previous step more so that it praised itself — but the truth is that water is good, soaps are good, surfactants are good and what there is today is good — each in its own way.
Today, cleaning — or its unnecessarily-privileged language form, "cleansing" — seems to be more focused on removing makeup than actually cleaning bare skin — of dirt, of dead cells, and of oils. While many modern products remove makeup and surface dirt very effectively, they largely leave the pores unclean of bacteria, dirt and oils. Such products also leave spent cells more intact than even through water-cleaning, discouraging the skin to behave optimally.
The alternative to these gentle cleaning products (or makeup removers) is the use of aggressive acids, alcohols and exfoliants. Products with these technologies go to the opposite extreme — they interact with the skin's bonds to peel the surface and/or specifically dry out as much oil as possible. This approach does clean the surface well but causes inflammation and encourages excess exposure of the skin's lower layers to the environment, allowing for premature ageing.
In our distant past, plant saponins were used to clean the skin well — and they did so very well. These saponins clean the surface of dead cells without peeling the skin. They delete dirt. They clean pores intensely. And they remove the skin's own oils — yes, the skin's very own oils and sebum secretions that everyone is so fearful of removing. The skin is not a cover. It is a living organ. Its function is to produce protective oils. To never clean these oils discourages their natural recycling — in a way, it would discourage the skin to engage in "exercise". And removing these oils too aggressively results in excessive dryness and a compensatory overproduction of oils.
SS is a cleaning balm that concentrates Ayurvedic saponins. They're unrefined and messy. They borrow their colour and smell from a place far away from today's madding crowd of refinement. But their near-perfect equilibrium between deep cleaning and respecting skin integrity is evidence that — somehow, somewhere — they connected to humankind.
With continued use, SS visibly targets all forms of build-up, blemishes, congestion and impurities. It is suitable for all skin types. After the first use, SS leaves the skin looking nearly pore-free and its surface exceptionally cleaned — as if it's radiating from within.
1. While SS is pH-balanced, plant saponins (and plants in general) can mildly irritate the eyes. While this sensitivity can be avoided by keeping your eyes closed during cleaning, if you develop any mild sensitivity around the eyes, it will disappear within a few minutes.
2. Within the first few minutes after using SS, you may feel that your skin feels mildly dry. This temporary feeling is a direct result of SS having removed skin oils gently to encourage recycling of these oils. This feeling is very short-lived and, within a few minutes, you'll notice your skin returns to normal.
3. For committed users of SS, the product can be applied for a deeper cleaning treatment as follows: Remove any makeup. Clean the skin with water and dry with a towel. Wet the palms of your hand. Massage a generous amount of SS into your palms until a mild lather forms like a paste. Apply to dry skin, avoiding the eye areas entirely. Leave on for 5 minutes. Rinse thoroughly with your eyes closed. Dry with a towel.
Yešti - Ahead is not further than behind.
True learning is a form of love — it is humble. It respects that to look forward, it must look backward. The few observers of NIOD's childhood know that NIOD isn't a brand. It is a force and it has a soul. While NIOD's genetics are committed to science, its soul is ultimately rooted in learning. Perhaps the only flaw of modern science is that it grows proud and loses respect for our deserving past — but learning stays humble and looks back.
NIOD's journey will offer respect to our past with a series of formulations informally called yešti NIOD's caretakers live with exhausting standards in science. The journey of NIOD's yešti formulations is not one of a lower standard — it is instead one that allows our collective past an overdue chance to speak.
Patch tests are an easy way to help predict if you may experience a negative initial reaction to a new product. It is recommended to perform a patch test before incorporating any new product into your regimen. We have outlined a general method for conducting your own patch test below based on the type of product.
- Apply a small amount of the product onto a clean area of skin on the upper forearm.
- Keep the area dry.
- If the product has a specified duration of use, rinse off after this time has elapsed. Otherwise rinse off after 24 hours.
- If any redness, burning, itching, blistering or irritation is observed at any time throughout the test, do not use the product.
For more product specific information, review our Patch Testing Guide.